Although now a popular and picturesque little seaside village with a sunny disposition, it’s the challenging nature of the sea that shaped Moelfre’s past. Moelfre’s RNLI Lifeboat Station, first established in 1836, has been instrumental in saving over 1,000 lives (there are guided tours in summer). There’s also the Seawatch Centre, a small museum and shop that celebrates the village’s rich maritime history and the importance of the sea in the lives of the local community.

Lifeboatman Richard ‘Dic’ Evans (1905–2001) summons up the spirit of the place. His bronze statue, in suitably heroic pose behind the helm of his boat, encapsulates the bravery and sense of duty of all lifeboat crews. Mind you, Dic was exceptional. He saved 281 lives and is one of a handful of men to be awarded the RNLI Gold Medal (the equivalent of the Victoria Cross for bravery at sea) twice.

A monument, on the Coastal Path north of the village, is a sombre reflection on the inevitability of tragedy in stormy seas, despite the best efforts of lifeboat crews. It remembers the Royal Charter, a ship wrecked on the rocks below on 26 October 1859. Over 450 lives were lost as the ship went down, heartbreakingly close to the end of its long voyage from Australia to Liverpool.

Another reminder of the tragedy, unveiled in 2009, is the bronze Royal Charter Memorial south of the Lifeboat Station. It depicts the steam clipper battling towering waves and the heroic efforts of one survivor, Giuseppi Ruggier, to save around 40 lives.

Such was the impact of the disaster that Charles Dickens visited the area and described its aftermath in a collection of literary sketches called The Uncommercial Traveller.

Then it’s on to the historic fenlands of Cors Goch National Nature Reserve inland from Benllech. It’s a slice of East Anglia transplanted into Anglesey, a moody stretch of low-lying heathlands, reed banks and wetlands.

Take the A5025 south from Moelfre to Benllech, turning right onto the B5108. In just over a mile turn left onto a minor road that shortly takes you to the entrance to Cors Goch North Wales Wildlife Trust and National Nature Reserve (there’s limited roadside parking roadside next to the main entrance). From here, follow the track to the reserve.

It’s an important wildlife reserve, populated by rare orchids, butterflies, birds and amphibians (fully described in the Go Wild North Anglesey tour – the reserve is on the border between North and East Anglesey). It’s featured here because of its long history of human activity, the insight it gives into the communities of old on the island and the sense of belonging that such special landscapes inspire.

Cattle grazed here, reeds were cut and stone was quarried to make millstones. Cattle (and ponies) continue to graze here year-round, helping to create the open conditions that many of the plants and animals require to survive and flourish. Today, it’s part of an internationally significant network of fens on the island.

Return to Benllech for lunch.